Pt. Buchon Trail

The Pt. Buchon Trail opened in 2008 as part of an exchange deal. Pacific Gas & Electric, who owns the property, got a permit to build a storage facility for used radioactive fuel. Regular folks got access to this amazing piece of land that hugs the coast along the "buffer zone" between the Diablo Canyon Power Plant to the South, and the Montana de Oro State Park to the North.

Access is limited to 255* hikers each day. I have no idea if they've ever come close to "full capacity," but it seems unlikely. The times I've been there I've seen maybe a dozen other people, at the most.

The trail opens at 8am, Thursday through Monday. Supposedly, it stays open until 5pm, but they ask you to return to the trail head by 3:45.

To get there, drive through Los Osos on Los Osos Valley Road until you hit the big left turn and the road turns into Pecho Valley. Continue driving all the way through the Montana de Oro State Park until the road dead ends at the Coon Creek trail head and parking lot. Head toward the chain link gate and you'll find an opening on the left side, just big enough for a person to walk through. Follow the paved road down the hill, across a very sturdy looking concrete bridge, and up the next hill until you come to the sign-in station at the Pt. Buchon trail head.


I can't tell you exactly how far this part of the walk is, but here's how far away the parking lot looks, after you've reached the station.


Now the real experience begins. If you enjoy meandering along green rolling hills, through meadows filled with wild flowers, listening to the crashing surf, and admiring rocky precipices jutting out from the sea, they you are in for a real treat. If you mistrust authority and hate following rules, or you are by nature a highly anxious person, this might not be the best way for you to spend your afternoon. Here are a few of the regulations and warnings you will be subject to during your visit. This, of course, is after you fill-out and sign the mandatory trail waiver which asks for your full name, complete contact information and a description of your vehicle.

"Please Stay on Trail"

"Do Not Litter"

"Look. But do not remove anything from the trail."

"No pets, smoking or open flame, alcohol, tobacco or firearms."

"No commercial photography without prior permission"

"Beware of Snakes"

"Please Stay away from Cliffs."

"Beware of Caves collapsing. Do not enter."

"Do not pet or feed the working animals."

"Stay clear of ranch electric fencing."

"No Poaching"

"If you hear the emergency warning siren sound, return immediately to the check-in station for further instructions."

"All users requesting access to the trail may be subject to a security check."

"Remote alarmed and monitored by sheriff’s department. Unauthorized entry is a felony."

"Remain on the marked trail at all times for your safety - exceptions are considered trespassing and subject to intervention up to and including arrests."

"Warning: Nuclear Power Plant"

"DEADLY FORCE MAY BE USED TO PROTECT THIS FACILITY."

"DO NOT ENTER!"

If you decide to proceed, and I hope you do, here is what you are going to see along the 2.5 miles trail:

a huge sinkhole with a beach and flowing tides at the bottom of it,


dramatic rock formations,


blue mountains on the distant Northern horizon,


arches over the sea,


steep green hills against the bright blue water,

And some of the luckiest cows in the world.



If you go in early spring, you will see carpets of golden poppies with the soft round mountains rising up behind them


or, if you turn the other way, you can admire them with the ocean as a backdrop.


We are not actually in the Montana De Oro, but it is the same kind of terrain, and is just as deserving of the title.

If you know enough Spanish to translate it into "Mountain of Gold" and you remember from history class that the "Rush of '49" happened in California, you might think the reference is to a mining legacy. But once you see these poppies, you understand the real meaning behind the name.

And, if you come a little later in the season, you'll catch the overlap between poppy blossom time and wild mustard season. Prepare to be enchanted.

(I grabbed this photo from a PG&E website.)


After an hour or so of hiking along gentle inclines, you will approach Windy Point. Thankfully, as most of the trail takes you through wide open spaces with no bushes to hide behind, they've placed some bathroom facilities out here.



As you round the corner, you will be greeted by this stunning view, with the Diablo Canyon Power Plant barely visible in the distance.


Here's a close-up. It reminds me of the Emerald City, partly, because of the bright green grass surrounding it, and the fields of poppies that lead to it. Also, because there is mysterious wizardry happening inside it, producing electricity for more than 2.2 million people.

It's a strange sensation to emerge so suddenly from reverie induced by peaceful communion with nature. One moment I'm in awe of the beautiful flora, the rich land, and the powerful sea. The next I'm recalling the famous Einstein quote:

"It has become appallingly obvious that our technology has exceeded our humanity."

Now, I know there's a lot of controversy over nuclear power and whether it is ultimately good or bad for people and the environment. I'm not even going to get into that here.

But I will remind you that PG&E is the "evil force" in the very true-to-life film, "Erin Brockovitch." According to the website of the real Ms. Brockovitch,

"What PG&E did was real... As early as 1965 this company knew that the facility in Hinkley, California was contaminating the ground water with high levels of hexavalent chromium and they chose to cover it up."

In 1996 PG&E was forced to pay $333 million in damages to the 600+ Hinkley residents involved in the lawsuit that made Erin famous.

The trail continues for another point 8 miles from this spot. But neither I nor any of the people I've hiked this route with have ever felt an inclination to continue. For one, the path leads somewhat steeply downhill, which means an uphill climb on the return. But I think the real reason I always turn around is that seeing the plant makes me anxious. I'd rather just go home and forget about it, which is what I do.

And that is why we have nuclear power plants and poisoned drinking water in the first place.**



* I calculated 255 people a day by subtracting 20 (the number of people allowed on the guided hike at PG&E's other accessible nature area, Poncho Coast Trail) from 275 (the total number of people allowed per day on the two trails combined.)



** Not everyone forgets about it. In the early 1980's, construction of this plant was strongly protested. And, for more information about Erin Brockovich's continuing battle for the environment and public health, you can visit her website at: http://www.brockovich.com/mystory.html